Korea-a look beyond the travel brochures

Insights from my life in South Korea; an expat perspective

Sunday, August 30, 2009

I would like to recommend a great book; Korea Unmasked. It provides wonderful insight into
Korean culture. It is written in comic book format but it is thought provoking and fun to read.
Cindy




http://www.hanbooks.com/koruninsearo.html





Korea Unmasked - In Search of the Country, the Society and the People

by Won-bok Rhie; Louis Choi, Jung Un (translation)
size: 257*188mm; 236 pages. publisher: Kimyoungsa, 2002.


About this book

This is an English edition of the bestseller comic book Far Countries, Neighboring Countries 9 - Korea (Sae Mon Nara Iun Nara 9 - Uri Nara). The book is to introduce real aspects of Korea that are sometimes misunderstood and unknown to foreigners. Through skillfully chosen subjects - e.g., spicy food, education fever, conglomerates, the tension between North and South Korea - Won-bok Rhie explores the unique manifestations of Korean attitudes that are often misunderstood by foreigners. It is a fascinating exploration of the Korean mindset that weaves together history, sociology and cultural anthropology. The insightful discussions on Korea's place between China and Japan, its more well-known neighbors, also clear the fog away as to who the Korean people are.


About the author

Won-bok Rhie is one of Korea's most famous cartoonists. After obtaining a bachelor's degree in architecture at Seoul National University, he studied graphic design at Müster University in Germany, where he obtained the degree of Dipl. Designer. He is the author of numerous comic books that focus on introducing historical, cultural and economic issues to the layman. He also has run many comic strip series in Korea's most prestigious daily newspapers and magazines. Korea Unmasked is part of a 9-volume series of comic books on several European countries and Japan and Korea, all of which became bestsellers in Korea. Rhie is also a professor of graphic design at Duksung Women's University in Seoul, Korea. In 1993, he was awarded the prestigious Noonsol Award in recognition of his contributions to the development of the Korean cartoon industry. From 1998 to 2000, he also served as the president of the Korean Society of Cartoon and Animation Studies.


Table of contents
Foreword
Introduction

1 Neighbors but Strangers : Korea, China and Japan

2 The Korean People

3 The Successes and Tribulations of the Koreans

4 The Long and Treacherous Road to Reunification

Translators' Notes : Jung Un, Louis Choi

Nami Island An Emerald Jewel



One of my favorite places in Korea is Nami Island or Namisum. I would like to share some
excerpts from an article I wrote in the Arirang a
publication of the Amercan Women's Club.

Not far from the bustle of city life is an emerald jewel in the North Han River: Nami Island. Its pristine beauty and proximity to Seoul make it a perfect day trip. This wonderful retreat is only a 90 minute bus ride away. It is famous for its beauty and for being a romantic setting. It draws thousands of tourists each year, many of whom are drawn by its fame for being the setting of the popular Korean television series "Winter Sonata" Its natural beauty also makes it a welcome home for artists and writers and has become known by the nicknames Song Island and Fairy Tale World.

The history of the island is interesting. Its name comes from the fact that it is home to the tomb of General Nami (1441-1469) who was appointed minister of the Military Board at age 25 after suppressing Lee Shi-ae's Revolt during the reign of King Sejo of the Joseon Dynasty. but was later branded a traitor and executed at the age of 26.
Nami only became an island when it became separated from the mainland in July 1943 with the completion of the Cheongpyeong Dam. The island is situated on the border between two of South Korea's northern provinces, Byeonggi-do and Gangwon-do. Its open grassy areas are a wonderful place for picnics and get-togethers.
An avenue of pine trees greeted us as we stepped off the 10 minute ferry ride. As we began our trek we fell in love with the island like so many before us. Like those artists, we loved the unique combination of the environmental focus, artistic expression and culture.
Since motorized vehicles are not permitted, traffic jams and car horns are conspicuously absent.
Bicycles of various varieties were available for rent but we chose to walk at a leisurely pace and experience the fresh air.
Many of the paths lead to the central square's restaurants and shops. A number of scenic spots are concentrated in the town square.
Nami has been the setting for both movies and television shows. It is most famous for the movie Choi In-ho's Winterreise and as I mentioned previously, the Korean television drama"Winter Sonata" which was re-broadcast throughout Asia. Many Japanese tourists visit the island because of the popularity of this show. There are signs around the island indicating the locations of many of the scenes that were depicted in the drama.
We of course had to re-enact the poses from the show. And while we were laughing and striking poses, a film crew from the Seoul television station MBC asked us if they could videotape us and we would be featured in a television special on Nami Island. It was the highlight of our day, being rocketed to instant stardom by being featured on Korean TV. It is a great memory of our time in Korea

An interesting term that you may hear in reference to Nami is "Hallyu"
According to www.seoul style.com
Hallyu means the love for Korean pop culture, or the appreciation of all things Korean. Hallyu began when the rest of Asia discovered Korean soap operas. Korean marketing people started to see a Korea-centric trend flowing throughout Asia, Hawaii,and even in parts of Russia. They dubbed this flow"The Korean Wave" or Hallyu.
This interesting aside provides some background that helps to understand some of the popularity of Nami.
Nami was a delight for the senses. I felt a kind of kinship with the many that have been smitten with this "Song Island"
If you listen...you can hear their gentle whispers.


For more information, visit the web site www.namsum.com

Friday, August 28, 2009

Teacher for a Day



One of my most memorable experiences in South Korea was participating in the "Hello Friends"
program. We were volunteer English Teachers for a day. We went out to schools in the outlying
areas and taught English to children who didn't see native English speakers on a regular basis.
We were always greeted with cheers and excitement. We felt like rock stars as we were escorted into the school. Typically a group of us went to the school and we would address the group as an assembly, singing songs with them.


Following the assembly, we would divide them in smaller groups so we could interact with them individually. I don't know who learned more the teachers or the kids!
The students had a range of abilities for English so we had to find ways to involve all of the students, so we planned activities and games so they could practice their English.


Often the students would demonstrate some particular aspect of their school and they would share it with us. In this picture the students were well know for playing Korean traditional instruments and they demonstrated their skill and attempted to teach us! It was a lot of fun!
We had opportunites to travel to various parts of Korea, including Busan, Jeju Island
and Yeosu.. Each of the Hello Friends trips included a visit to a local attraction in the
area.
These are just a few of the pictures from
Jeju and Yeosu, two beautiful parts of Korea.
I will describe them more fully in another
blog post.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Taegukki The Korean National Flag

[South Korean flag] image by Željko Heimer
In my quest to share info on Korean culture, I am going to share this information about the symbolism of the flag. I think this is interesting. I always thought it was colorful and I understood the yin and yang symbolism but it is interesting to learn about the background. I am sharing this info provided by the Flags of the World website.

http://flagspot.net/flags/kr.html#symb

Symbolism of the flag

The Korean national flag is called Taegukki. The meaning of Korean National Flag is very philosophical. The origin comes from the old oriental philosophy called the theory of Um-Yang, in Chinese pronunciation Yin-Yang. Yin means dark and cold, while Yang means bright and hot. The idea of Yin-Yang is supposed to be originated from the old Korean philosophy of Samshin meaning three gods. A very old book called Chuyok or Iching in Chinese, which was written by (a) Chinese several thousands years ago, claims all objects and events in the world are expressed by the movement of yin and yang. For example, the moon is yin while the sun is yang; the earth is yin and the heaven is yang; a woman is yin and a man is yang; the night is yin and the day is yang; the winter is yin and the summer is yang, etc. Yin and yang are relative. Therefore, A can be yin with respect to B while A can also be yang with respect to C. For instance, the spring is yin w.r.t. the summer and it is at the same time yang w.r.t. the winter. Yin and yang are opposite and struggle each other while they cooperate in harmony. The harmonious state of the movement of yin and yang is called Taeguki, or Taikukkki, Taichi in Chinese, which is also the name of the Korean national flag, i.e. Taegukki. Ki means a flag. (See the similarity between the concept of Yin-Yang-Taichi and the dialectics of thesis-antithesis-synthesis.) The upper half circle, red, of Taeguk means yang and the lower half circle, blue, means yin. They stand for the state of harmony of yin and yang.

The symbols, called Kwae, in the four corners, mean the principle of movement and harmony. Basically, each Kwae consists of three bars that can be either broken or unbroken bars. A broken bar stands for yin while an unbroken bar stands for yang. For example, the upper left Kwae, called Kun, is composed of three solid unbroken bars. And the lower left Kwae, called Yi, is composed of two unbroken bars and one broken bar in between. Since one bar can be either broken or unbroken, i.e. same concept as bit as in the binary computer world, three bars can express 23 = 8 combinations. If you use four bars you can express 24=64 combinations; 10 bars, 210=1024, etc. Therefore the more bars you use the more different situation you can express with Kwae. Among so many states of Kwae, i.e. principle of movement of objects and events, four basic Kwae are used in the Korean National Flag. Those are Kun meaning heaven, Yi meaning fire, Kam meaning water, and Kon meaning earth. Each of them symbolizes a different state of movement.


___
___
_ _
_ _
Kun ___ Yi _ _ Kam ___ Kon _ _

___
___
_ _
_ _

The white color of background stands for the peace and the purity of the Korean people who have loved to wear white colored clothes. Therefore, the Korean people have been called the white-clad nation.

To conclude, the symbols, Yin, Yang, Kun, Yi, Kam, and Kon, express the principle of the movement of all objects in the universe and the movement of the universe itself. It also stands for peace and harmony.
Jorge Candeias, 14 October 1997


The white field represents the people's purity and their desire for peace, while the central emblem is the red and blue yin-yang symbol, depicting the concepts of creation and development through duality and balance. Surrounding this are four black KWAE symbols, which are taken from the I CHING and represent the four seasons, the four compass points, the four elements, and the sun, moon, earth, and heaven. They denote the process of yin and yang going through a spiral of change and growth.
Nick Artimovich, 01 November 1996

from the official site of the (South) Korean government: http://www.bluehouse.go.kr/english/introduce/aboutkorea/index.html
The Korean flag is called taegukki. Its design symbolizes the principles of the yin and yang in Oriental philosophy. The circle in the center of the flag is divided into two equal parts. The upper red section represents the positive cosmic forces of the yang. Conversely, the lower blue section represents the negative cosmic forces of the yin. The two forces together embody the concepts of continual movement and the balance and harmony that characterize the sphere of infinity. The circle is surrounded by four trigrams, one in each corner. Each trigram symbolizes one of the four universal elements: heaven, earth, fire and water."

Ivan Sache, 29 December 1998


Tae Han Min Kuk !
Cindy

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Cindyshi You Can Do It



Hiking in Korea is a national pastime. It goes beyond sport or fitness. It is a passion. Each weekend thousands of people form harmonious lines as they make their way to the summit. Always to the summit, they usually don't quit until they reach the top and then the picnics and socializing begins.
Once I watched an old woman hiking with her walker, a feat that I thought in itself was amazing. But when she reached the top she didn't stop until she, with the help of her husband, climbed a ten foot rock so should be on the very summit. I was inspired by this determination but I have to admit i didn't share this feeling that I had to climb to the very top. In fact I was quite content to stop at one of the little restaurants near the river and call it a day!
But this all changed when my husband and I became part of a Korean hiking club where we learned about this passion first hand. They were all experienced hikers and were happy to help us become better hikers. They hiked every weekend and each weekend there was a new guide taking us on trails that were not the main trails. They were definitely "the road less travelled" As I said It has never been a problem for me to stop before I reached the top. I was happy to watch the accomplishments of others at a safe distance. So you can imagine my reluctance when it became apparent that to get to the top required climbing a rope while a fellow hiker held it for you.
A rope? Me? No!
A NI YO (No in Korean!)
But they wouldn't hear of it. They gathered around me and chanted; "Cindyshi, you can do it"
Youuuuuuuuu can do it!
Hmm I could see they were not going to change their minds. I wanted them to just leave me there and pick me up on the way down.
"No" they said "You can do it"
So with a racing heart and my eyes closed I took the rope and began to climb.
Up I went, to the very top which was at the center of the Bukansan National Park.
I was met with a rousing round of cheers .A spectacular view was my reward. It was beautiful
It was worth the climb.
Cindyshi you can do it! I can hear their encouraging voices at times when I am faced with a daunting task.
Youuu can do it!

So I came to be called Cindyshi and it remains a special nickname to me.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Colorful Korea








From the distinctive architecture in Seoul to the spectacular mountain views, to the ocean beaches, there are many visual delights in Korea. This slideshow is a sampling of the some of these scenes. Take a minute and take a little tour. Which of these appeals to you? There are many mountain scenes as well as shots of Nami Island, Yeosu, Seoul, Soraksan and many more. This blog will be introducing you to these beautiful places.
Welcome.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Hanbok- Traditional Korean Dress






The dress that I am wearing in my profile is a Korean hanbok. It is very special to me
it was made especially for me by Korean friends. It is a treasure and it will always remind me of my special time in Korea. I have since learned that it is the color for newlyweds and it is said that if a man wants to mold his wife the way he would like her to be, that he should do it while she is wearing a red skirt. (I should add that so far this is NOT working at my house and I am a "newlywed" who has been married for 35 years)but it is fun.
Here is some additional background information on the the hanbok
The following information on Korean Traditional dress was found in the following website
http://www.clickasia.co.kr/aboutf2.htm
The Korean costume is called hanbok. It is characterized by simple lines and no pockets. The women¡¯s hanbok comprise a wrap skirt and a bolero-like jacket, and the men¡¯s, roomy pants bound at the ankles and a short jacket. Hanbok are worn by Koreans of all ages, particularly on traditional holidays and when attending social affairs having a Korean overtone.
Some of the basic elements of today¡¯s hanbok, namely the jacket (chogori) and pants (paji), were probably worn at a very early date, but it was not until the Three Kingdoms period (57 B.C.-A.D.668) that the two-piece costume of today began to evolve. Short, tight trousers and tight, waist-length jackets were worn by both men and women during the early part of the period as evidenced by ancient tomb paintings.
Toward the end of the Three Kingdoms period, T¡¯ang China introduced Koreans to silk mandarin robes and they were adopted for wear by royalty and officials. Noblewomen began to wear full-length skirt-trousers and wide-sleeved, hip-length jackets belted at the waist and noblemen began to wear roomy trousers bound in at the ankles and a narrow, tunic-style jacket cuffed at the wrists and belted at the waist.


'
In the late thirteenth century Koryo, the kingdom that ruled Korea from 918-1392, became a vassal state of Mongolia during the Mongol Chinese Yuan Dynasty. Its twenty-fifth ruler, Ch¡¯ungnyol-wang (r.1274-1308), took as his wife a princess from the court of Kubla Khan and began dressing in Mongol fashion. It is said that within three years of his ascendance to the throne, every official in the Koryo court had shaved his head except for a patch of hair in the middle and had adopted the dress of the Mongolian plains people. During the short time Koryo was a Mongol vassal, three kings were born to Korean-Mongolian queens, which had quite an effect on the social and fashion trends of the times. The skirt (ch¡¯ima) was shortened as was the vest (chogori), which was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon instead of belted and the sleeves were curved slightly.
The upper classes wore hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high-grade lightweight materials in warm weather and of plain and patterned silks the rest of the tear. Commoners were restricted by law as well as resources to cotton at best. The upper classes wore a variety of colors, though bright colors were generally worn by children and young girls and subdued colors by meddle-aged men and women. Commoners were restricted by law to everyday clothes of white but for special occasions they wore dull shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal.
Both males and females wore their hair in a long pigtail until they were married, at which time the hair was knotted-the man¡¯s in a topknot (sangt¡¯u) on the top of the head and the woman¡¯s in a ball just above the nape of the neck. A long pin, or pinyo, was thrust through the knotted hair of the woman as both a fastener and a decoration. The material and length of the pinyo varied according to the wearer¡¯s class and status. Headwear for men varied according to class and status.

They are so beautiful and colorful, I thought you would enjoy learning a little more about them.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Gyeongbokgung Palace-The Grandest of em all



On our very first day in Seoul we couldn't wait to experience Korea. (This was made possible because my luggage went to France so I didn't have anything to unpack) On our first foray into
Seoul we visited the largest palace Gyeongbokgung. We were amazed at the size and the beauty of the ornate design. It is the grandest of the five palaces from the period.
It was originally built in 1394 as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty by its founder King Taejo.
Built at the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty when the Yi Dynasty moved the capital to Seoul,
the palace remained the main seat of power for Korea for much of the time to the present.Gyeongbok means shining happiness.
http://www.lifeinko
rea.com/Travel2/66
(Some of the information on the palace was taken from the Life In Korea website)

It was destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592 and left in ruins for over 250 years. Starting in 1865, it was rebuilt to its original grandeur. When Korea was annexed by Japan in 1910, most of the 200 building on the palace grounds were torn down by the Japanese, leaving only a dozen structures. The map near the front entrance shows the arrangement of the complex during the latter part of the reign of King Kojong. It shows the major hails, pavilions, offices, storerooms, gates and bridges of the 419,100 square meter grounds.


Kyeonghoe-ru is the largest pavilion in South Korea and has been designated National Treasure #224. Supported by 48 stone pillars and set in a lotus pond, the pavilion was a favored place for the King to entertain visiting dignitaries. King Taejo, founder of the Chosun Dynasty and builder of Gyeongbok Palace, had the pavilion erected on this man-made lake in the western section of the palace. He named Kyeonghoe for "joyous meeting."

It is an interesting aspect of all of the palaces is that they have
beautiful retreats where the royalty could study and reflect or entertain.


Another fascinating aspect of the palace architecture is the many chimneys. The palace buildings had floor heat and the chinneys provided the exhaust for this heating system. It was a precursor to the present day ondol heating that is used in present day Korea.

We were fortunate to be there when there was a reenactment of the changing of the palace guard
It was a very colorful performance.

More information is available about the palace and other
aspects of Korea at www.Tour2Korea.com

http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262361

It was a great introduction to the many interesting discoveries that we experienced during our time in Korea.
Stay tuned for more adventures!

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

South Korea in Perspective



Like so many people I know, when were told we were moving to Korea, I wasn’t sure exactly where it was. So I went to the library and looked on the big globe.
When I announced that I was moving to South Korea, the librarian told me that her daughter lived in Japan and that it was near Japan.
That was a life changing day for me. I checked out a DVD called “Video Vacations-Tour Korea” I think it was then that I began to fall in love. I had no idea that it had such a rich cultural heritage. In this blog I will be sharing things I have learned and I invite others to share your stories and comments too.

To put Korea in perspective…


It is a country about the size of the U.S. state of Indiana, yet despite this it continues to be a player on the world stage.

It is a country of over 48 million people, many of them residing in Seoul, the nation’s capital.

Seoul is very unique, as the Captial, it is the home of the government functions, embassies, the arts and entertainment. So it is like having New York, Washington D.C. and Hollywood all rolled into one dynamic city.

Mountains cover 70% of the land mass, making it one of the most mountainous regions in the world. It is said that you cannot stand anywhere in South Korea and not see mountains in the distance.

The habitation of early man in Korea appears to have started about half a million years ago.the first kingdon, named Gojoseon was formed in 2333 BC.
So it has a very rich and ancient history.

These are just a a few of the fascinating aspects of Korea-

More to come..

Tuesday, August 11, 2009


Welcome to The Korea Chronicle..

This blog is a journal of the many extraordinary experiences from our expat experience in Seoul, South Korea. My husband’s work took him there so I had the opportunity to spend my time exploring the country, language and culture. We have recently returned to the United States, but I remain smitten by this fascinating place. The ancient culture and structures are so interesting to someone whose country is only a little over two hundred years old. I loved learning about the ancient struggles and it helped me to understand modern Korea more. There is a popular expression- Korea, where the past is always present. This is wonderfully true. The ancient customs still have a major impact on the present day culture.
So the main focus of this blog is to foster cross cultural understanding. Many American people have no idea of what Korea is really like. Their only concept is from the reruns of the popular television show; M.A.S.H. which doesn’t begin to depict the true Korea. So I would like to share my experiences and invite others to share their insights as well. While I am not saying that living in Korea is not without its challenges my purpose is to share the endearing stories from my experiences with the Korean people.
I think they are the true National Treasure number one.
I am not a cultural expert, but I learned a lot during my time there. The Korean people areproud of their country and their culture. I am very grateful to the many Koreans who were such gracious hosts during my time in their country
Tae Han Min Kuk

Cindyshi